www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEcVnd8-mCY

www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dwpBpC6REw

Principles of the system

Vented hot water systems are a way of heating up a large store of water for user delivery at outlets throughout a house. They also have the capacity to automatically feed more water into their system using a cold water feed tank above the hot water cylinder. When cold water is heated up it expands and therefore needs somewhere to expand to. This is when the open vented system uses an expansion pipe back up to the cold water feed tank. Take a look at the diagram below for a general system layout:

Cold Water Supply Tank

This tank should be of adequate size to feed the hot water cylinder and any cold taps required on the system (generally the bath tap). If any taps are opened in the house gravity will force the cold water into the bottom of the hot water tank for heating up and eventual use. The cold water supply tank is supplied by a mains pressure cold water feed that uses a ball valve to automatically keep the system topped-up. The expansion pipe should have it’s outlet over hanging into the cold water supply tank but not below the lip of the tank. The cold water tank should have an overflow pipe leading to a safe spot outside that is visible in case the expansion runs too much or the ball valve fails and doesn’t shut off.

Cold Water Feed Pipe

This pipe supplies cold water to the hot water cylinder for re-heating and eventual use. It is prudent to fit an isolating valve on this pipe whenever possible.

Hot Water Feed Pipe

When the cold water has been heated up by either the immersion heater of heating coil, this pipe supplies the outlets (or taps) with the hot water supply. This pipe also tees off up to the expansion.

Expansion Pipe/Vent pipe

The most important pipe on the system and the reason it is open vented. Any water being heated up can expand up this pipe. In the event of overheat the pipe will drip safely into the cold water feed tank.

Immersion Heater

This is usually seen as the electric backup heater for the hot water cylinder. It acts in the same way as your kitchen kettle.

Heating Coil

The heating soil is used to transfer heat from heating system water (from the boiler) to hot water for the taps. Usually controlled by a programmer time switch and a thermostat on the cylinder which signals either a  3 port or 2 port valve to open and close.

Open Vented Tips

If you find the expansion pipe is running into the cold water storage tank there are a few things you can try before calling a plumber. Firstly adjust the temperature thermostat down a little. This might reduce the amount of expansion. If that doesn’t work try raising the height of the expansion crook above the cold water tank.

A toilet syphon uses a one way diaphragm to push water up and down a syphon tube. This creates the syphon which uses the weight of the water falling into the toilet to suck more water in from the cistern. The syphon is broken when the cistern is emptied.

The problem with syphons is the one way diaphragm. After some years of flushing they get old and develop holes or get weak. This is when you need to change the toilet syphon.

We recommend at this time to change the ‘doughnut’ if the cistern is close coupled and the metal clamp as they can get rusty and not work properly. These components are imperative to in sealing the cistern to the toilet. If it is a high level or removed toilet cistern just use the supplied compression nut and rubber seal to sonnect the flush pipe.

Watch the video below to find out how to change a close coupled toilet syphon.

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wj-5YXnY-_Y

Make sure there is no air in the radiator. Using a radiator key and a cloth, release any air trapped in the radiator. Remember to top the heating system up with water should it be a pressurised (sealed) system.

If the radiator is cold at the bottom it could be sludge in the radiator. Close the valves on the radiator, remove it and then clean out the inside with a hose until the water runs clear.

Always remember to check the lockshield valve on the radiator is open and that the TRV pin is not stuck down.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqku_Rc_YuI

Watch this quick video on convector radiators for more advice:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=2f_VgstDmEE

Why do convector radiators heat the room quicker? Convector radiators are different from panel radiators because of the addition of ‘convecting fins’ on the back of the radiator. These fins greatly increase the surface area that colder air can come into contact with and pick up heat.

Imagine you had a usual Stelrad Elite panel radiator that is 1000mm long and 600mm high. The average BTU of such a radiator is 2081. Now if you add the fins to the panel radiator of the same size your BTU is greatly increased to 3412. 1000 extra BTU for no more space taken up in the room. You can even buy double panel single convector radiators. Again one of the same dimentions would produce 4808 BTU. The next radiator up (and the most common in homes in the UK) are the double panel convector radiators. One of the same dimensions (1000×600) can produce a massive 6067 BTU. An extra 3986 BTU for no extra use if space. It is no wonder that this particular type of radiator is so popular with installers and the general public.

How To Calculate the BTU required for you room: It is really very simple but very important. The last thing you want to buy a nice new radiator that doesn’t have the capability to actually heat the room in which it is situated! Here is how you do it. First measure the room to get a cubic feet measurement. (width x height x length) Then multiply the cubic feet by 5. So a small room with a size of 720 cubic feet the BTU required for that room would be 3600. All radiators have their BTU rating on them when you buy them.

Where to buy convector radiators and why buy my own? Firstly if you buy your own radiators and not your engineer, then you avoid their mark up and save money. If you aren’t sure which ones to buy then use our calculator or ask your installing engineer. They should tell you.

There are many retailers online but we found Screwfix to be cheapest and most reliable starting at £19.99. Click here to view their range.

Here are a few videos that could help you. If you still are not warm please read on or tell us.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqku_Rc_YuI

www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUWbxccVDpc

First lets look at the possible solutions when all of the radiators are not working. Make sure your heating is turned on and that the room thermostat (if there is one) is turned up and calling for heat. If only one radiator is not working, scroll down further for possible solutions.

Below are the possible mechanical checks you should perform to eliminate or find any problems.

Is the boiler alight?

Checked that the room thermostat (if present) is switching properly? Only do this if you have a sound knowledge in electrics. Test each side of the switch poles when the thermostat is turned up to ensure a live signal is being sent to the motorised valve/pump/boiler according to system.

Motorised Valve Failure? Check that any motorised valves are open. They are easily identified. Look for a box (either silver of plastic) that is attached to the pipe. Most have an actuator arm on the side that you can move to open and close the valve. If it is easy to move then it is open and working correctly. If it is hard to move or you can hear a slight wirring noise from the valve then it is either not functioning properly or not being called to open when it should be. This is probably the point you should refer to an engineer.

Is the Pump running and are the pump valves open? If there is a motorised valve and it is open, check that the pump and boiler are running. Most pumps have a screw on the end of the shaft that can be removed to check that the pump is operating properly. Check that the pump valves are open (fully wound anti-clockwise)

Right, if all of the above mechanical parts are working and you still are not getting any heat to the radiators you will need to check a few other things.

Pump valves scaled up? All to often it can come to this. Drain the system and remove the pump and valves. The valves can often clog up due to debris from oxidisation. Clear them out or replace with new ones.

Sludge in the heating system? The only way to find this out is to drain the system down, remove each radiator and hose it through outside. If the pipework in the house is sludged up then you are likely to need it power flushed by an engineer.

Now, what can you do IF ONLY ONE RADIATOR IS GETTING HOT?

Firstly is the radiator just cold at the top and hot at the bottom? If so the problem is air in the radiator. Using a radiator key, release the air. You should feel the radiator get hot in no time. Remember to top up any lost pressure if on a sealed (pressurised) heating system.

Is the radiator hot at the top and cold at the bottom after 30 minutes of operation? If so then the problem is most likely to be sludge in the radiator. Shut the valves at each end, remove the radiator and hose it though outside till the water runs clear.

Now if the radiator is stone cold all over, read on….

What we often do as a test is shut all the radiators that are getting hot. Does the trouble radiator then get hot? If so great, you’ve just found the problem – it is just a matter of supply and demand. Usually the solution is simple. Make sure the pump speed is high by adjusting the speed setting on the body of the pump. Now you can perform an operation known as balancing a heating system or allowing an equal supply of heat to each radiator. Click here to find out how to balance a heating system.

If the radiator still does not get hot even when all the others are shut it can still be a simple solution.

If the radiator has a TRV (thermostatic radiator valve) remove the head. Check to see if the pin moves freely. DO NOT hit with a hammer or any other tool as suggested on other websites. You can break the pin or worse still it will fly out of its collar and leave you with a water fountain. All you need to do is gently move the pin up and down with a pair of pliers. Leave the pin in the up position, adjust the removed head to the highest temperature setting and re-attach to the valve body. Now would probably be the time to think about getting new TRV’s. Click here to find out more. After that check that the lockshield on the other end of the radiator is fully open.

If after trying all of the above you still do not have a hot radiator, it could be a blocked pipe in the floor. Call an engineer or contact us.

Good Luck!

There are three types of domestic hot water system. This first is a combi boiler system where the boiler directly heats the water on demand. The second is a gravity fed (open vent) hot water tank which is fed from a tank in the loft. The third is a pressurised hot water system.

We are going to look at the pressurised hot water system or unvented hot water system. Please watch the video below for more information on Hot Water Systems.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-rqRmjpx88

What is an Unvented hot water system?

An unvented hot water system takes it’s cold water supply directly from the incoming water main. It is not gravity fed by a tank in the loft. They can be direct or indirect.

How an Unvented Cylinder Works:

As we have said an unvented cylinder is supplied by the incoming main. When you open your tap, that high pressure cold water enters into the unvented hot water tank at the bottom, forcing hot water out of the top outlet and to your taps.

If you’re interested in buying an unvented cylinder, click here.

Advantages:

1. Pressure is much higher on all outlets.

2. No loft tanks which reduce risk of contamination and legionnaires

3. No pipes in the loft so no frozen pipe risk.

4. Very high heat recovery rate after use. Typical warm up time 15-20 minutes.

Disadvantages:

1. The hot water pressure will only be as good as your incoming main, however this is fine for most people.

2. You cannot fit shower pumps on mains water supplies. However you shouldn’t really need to.

3. When feeding multiple outlets the pressure can drop. This also applies to vented systems. On unvented systems it can be due to a small incoming main pipe (15mm for example). To overcome this on an unvented system, you need to install an ‘accumulator’.

Cylinder Sizes:

It is important when buying any hot water cylinder, unvented or not, to size it correctly for the demand it will supply. Most families of 2-4 people will only require a 150 litre tank. This will accomodate a house with one bathroom with a power shower and ensuite. Any household that is larger and has more bathrooms will be looking at 200 litre+ tank.

Why buy your own unvented hot water cylinder?

If you buy your own pressurised hot water cylinder you will save money by avoiding your engineer’s mark-up. Also you will know what you are getting. If you aren’t sure which cylinder to get and need some advice, ask your engineer. They should provide you with all the information you need to make the right choice and purchase accordingly.

If you think you can fit the tank yourself then go ahead. Email us if you have any questions. To make it even easier, Heat and Plumb sell unvented tanks that already have the control valves, pressure relief valves and other components already attached and installed. They are more expensive but all you have to do is connect the hot water outlet, cold water inlet and pressure relief pipes and you save money not paying an engineer to do it. Click here to have a look.

Remember to buy the male iron connections. Most cylinders are 3/4″ to whatever pipe you are fitting (generally 22mm copper compression)

Where to buy unvented hot water cylinders:

There are thousands of retailers online selling water cylinders. We advise you use an established plumbing merchant with a good track record and proven history.

Other things to consider:

Because of the high pressures involved high pressure relief valves need to be installed. High pressure relief pipes need to be installed according to manufacturer’s instructions. These are usually supplied by the manufacturer with the cylinder. They also come supplied with a small expansion vessel to absorb any expansion when the cold water is heated up to temperature.

Why buy a Water Softener?

Water softeners reduce the ‘hardness’ of normal mains water. Hard, unsoftened water contains more calcium and magnesium than normal soft water. This results in ‘scale’ being deposited on household goods like kettles, taps and washing machines. Hard water can drastically reduce the serviceable life of all water based products. Softened water also saves you money because you do not have to use so much washing powder, you do not have to add salt to your dishwasher and you don’t even need to use as much shampoo.

Another reason is your body. Many people find that washing and showering in hard water makes their skin dry. Installing a water softener will eliminate many dry skin problems associated with water.

Lastly water softeners are better than ‘scale reducers’ and other products because they actually remove the water hardening agents and flush them down the drain. Scale reducers only reduce the particle size in the hope that they do not cling to your plumbing components.

If you are interested in buying a water softener and want more information, click here.

How does a Water Softener Work?

Watch this video to find out how water softeners work. Then read our description below.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxwJHolTbTc

As we have said a water softener works by removing calcium and magnesium deposits from your water supply thus reducing it’s hardness. How does it perform this function? There are four main components that make this operation possible. The first is the brine chamber. This holds salt blocks for use in the water softener. The second is the resin chamber which is often situated in the brine chamber and is filled with resin beads that are naturally negatively charged. The third is the motorised valve that diverts water to the different components in the water softener during operation using either a cam type valve or a disk valve. Essentially both valves perform the same function – to open and close inlets and outlets in a certain sequence as required by the water softener during ‘regeneration’. The forth is the control box which monitors water usage and most importantly the flow out of the resin chamber to the taps.

In normal operation the unsoftened water passes through the brine chamber, is softened,  and then runs off to your taps. The softening process occurs when hardened water, with naturally positively charged magnesium (M) and calcium (C) ions, passes through the resin chamber. The positive M and C ions attract to the negatively charged resin beads and do not continue on to your taps. This process continues as you use the softened water.

Water Softener Regeneration

Over time the resin beads get full of attracted M and C ions. The central control unit is constantly monitoring the resin chamber’s flow. When it notices a slowing in the water flow due to the large amount of M and C ions it activates the motorised valve. Firstly the valve allows water into the brine chamber to create a brine solution. This solution is then passed into the resin chamber to wash the M and C ions away and out of the discharge pipe, down the drain.

Some water softeners ‘learn’ when you use the most amount of water. This allows them to delay regeneration until the middle of the night. Other water softeners use the water pressure itself to drive the motorised valve instead of electricity, eradicating the need for a power supply.

How to install a Water Softener

It is a common misconseption that softened water is infact salt water. This is understandable as there is a brine chamber present. Infact the sodium content in a glass of softened water is equivalent to that of a glass of milk. Nevertheless to some softened water has a repugnant taste and it is not advised by health professionals to be a source of drinking water. That is why when installing a water softener most will leave the kitchen or drinks tap unsoftened. Also any outside taps are generally left unsoftened.

Most water softeners will be installed under the kitchen sink or as near to the incoming main as possible. After the unsoftened water outlet comes the water softener inlet valve. The bypass valve is present should the water softener need servicing without disrupting a water supply to the house. Some engineers install a filter on the inlets and outlets but that is up to manufacturer’s specification.

Where to buy a water softener

Water softeners are widely available online. Nowadays they can be installed by householders with a general knowledge of plumbing, reading the instructions and using this website for general reference. Install the product according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to avoid any warranty issues.

Even if you are using a qualified engineer to install the water softener, it is often more cost effective to buy the product yourself. You will avoid the engineer’s mark-up and know what you are getting. If you aren’t sure which water softener to buy, ask your installing engineer and they should be happy to inform you.

Many of you know the usual methods of making your home more energy efficient; loads of loft insulation, wall insulation, double glazing etc. What about the actual heating efficiency of your heating system?

When it comes to comparing the energy efficiency of oil or gas heating systems, the difference is so small you need not worry.

The first component to look at when considering how to make your winter warmer is the boiler. How energy efficient is it? Standard efficiency boilers are rarely more than 80% efficient. Condensing boilers are never below 95% efficient. One customer we installed one for made a note of how many litres of oil they used before and after a new condensing boiler installation. They found they used 7 litres less a day. Over time they missed one whole delivery of oil a year.

This means in simple terms, that every 100 litres of oil you buy, 20 litres will be saved, compared with the old boiler. This will roughly give a year’s free heat every fifth year!

To add to this, it’s easy for you to buy the boiler and get a professional engineer to install it thus avoiding their mark-up. To find out more about buying your own boiler, click here.

With this in mind, have you considered how good your heating controls are? For instance an old fashioned room thermostat probably has a 3-5 degrees centigrade delay between turning the heat on and off which wastes fuel.

A modern digital room thermostat will control precisely to plus or minus ½ degree centigrade and also has a night set-back feature, so you simply press the night temperature button to give your required night temperature when you go to bed, or go on holiday in the winter. New heating controls are easily purchased online from many retailers. We list some below.

Also, do you have thermostatic radiator valves installed? This gives you the option of controlling all rooms, especially the bedrooms as there is little point heating the bedrooms to the same temperature as the rest of the house. These valves will definitely save you money.

Have you condidered how much heat your hot water tank is leaking? New hot water tanks have a much better heat retaining capacity. Some only needing one heat cycle a day. They save loads of energy and money.

Are all pipes in your house that are not visible insulated. We know this can be a nightmare if all the pipes are under the floors. For some it might just not be feasible. For those that can access their pipes and insulate them, it pays off in the future.

Another idea: Is your room thermostat in your hallway? Do you live in your hallway? Probably not! So a remote, wire-free digital control thermostat could be the thing for you as it can be taken to every room, providing it is not more than 25 metres away from the boiler controls. So, if you are slaving away in the kitchen all day, take it with you. And when you relax in your sitting room later in the day you can carry it with you, so you can control your room temperature wherever you are.

We have listed a few retailers below who stock energy efficient controls and upgrades at a competitive price: